Turned shoe.



H. 0'. ROWE.

TURNED SHOE.

APPLIOA'IION IILIED MAR. 80, 1909.

Patented Oct. 19,1909.

d e a If /Igfi. w

- 1 3. e fl/z'ifiessear I Flue/2207 M @Qm.

HENRY C. ROWE, OF HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS.

TURNED SHOE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Oot.'19, 1909.

Application filed. March 30, 1909. Serial No. 486,775.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, HENRY C. ROWE, of Haverhill, county of Essex, State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Turned Shoes, of which the following is a specification.

The ordinary turned shoe, while desirable for the reason that it costs much less to manufacture and is much more flexible and comfortable to wear than a welt shoe, is principally objectionable because it cannot be satisfactorily repaired by tapping or resewed when ripped. Furthermore, the heaviest sole leather which is produced does not provide a sole as heavy as is sometimes desired, and the channel, which is formed in the sole for the purpose of attaching the upper thereto, extends through a substantial portion of the substance which might otherwise be left for wear, so that, when the sole is only partly worn through, it becomes worn through to the stitches, so that the stitches will be cut and the shoes will rip.

One class of turned shoes which are made in large numbers are known as mock welts, in which the full thickness of the sole is left at the edge which projects so that the shoe has the appearance of a welted shoe. Inasmuch as the flesh side. of the sole is thus exposed, in place of the ordinary welt, it is diflicult to finish the extension edge in a satisfactory manner, as the flesh side does not take the finish as well as the grain side. 7

The object of my invention is to provide a turned shoe which may be satisfactorily repaired after the sole has become worn through, which may be provided with as heavy a sole as desired, and which may be finished so as to have practically the appearance of a welted shoe.

A further object of the invention is to accomplish both results with but slight increase, if any, over the cost of manufacture of the turned shoes which have previously been produced.

I accomplish these objects by the means shown in the accompanying drawing, in which,

Figures 1, 3 and 4 are views of the inner side of a shoe bottom illustrating different stages in the process of manufacture of a shoe made according to my invention. Fig. 2 is an edge view of the shoe bottom. Fig. 5 is a detail sectional view showing a portion of the shoe as it appears after it is sewed and before it is turned, and, Fig. 6 is a similar view illustrating the same after turning. Figs. 7 and 8 are enlarged detall sectional views taken at the lines 7( and 88, respectively, of Fig. 4.

According to my invention I provlde a complete outer sole a, such as ordinarlly constitutes the bottom of the turned shoe, and to the fore-part of this sole I cement a tap-piece b of the same shape as the forepart of the sole, the flesh side of the tappiece being arranged next the flesh side of the sole. The tap-piece extends approximately to the front portion of the shank, and the rear, or shank edge thereof is skived on this flesh side, so that when the tap-piece is cemented to the inner side of the sole, the grain surface of the tap-piece will be practically continuous with the flesh surface of the sole in the rear thereof. The tap-piece and sole are then rounded out together and the forepart of the sole is then channeled on its outer, or grain side, to the shank, or opposite the rear end of the tap-piece. The tap-piece is then fair-stitched to the sole, the stitches, indicated by the broken line 0, extending about the edge of the sole and tappiece, and terminating at each side at the rear end of the tap-piece. This stitching operation is termed fair-stitching to distinguish it from the upper -connecting stitches hereafter referred to, the kind of stitch employed to secure the tap-piece to the sole being preferably the same as is usually employed in connecting the outer sole of a welt. shoe to the welt. A channel 03 and upper-receiving shoulder groove 6 are then cut in the exposed or grain side of the tappiece and the shank and heel portion of the sole, as in the channeling of a sole for mock welt turned shoes, said channel and groove passing completely through the skived end-portion of the tap-piece, so that they enter the sole beneath said skived end portion and descend therein until opposite the edge of said skived end-portion. The groove and channel in the tap-piece and sole are thus made continuous and of uniform depth and pass from one to the other at each side of the sole without interruption, so that there is nothing to interfere with the passage of the sewing mechanism of a stitching machine from one to the other when stitching on the upper. The formation at this point is best illustrated in Figs. 7 and 8,

in which Fig. 7 is a section at the bottom of the channel and Fig. 8 a section at the bottom of the groove. The groove 6, as well as the channel (Z is located within the line of stitches'c, as shown in Figs. 4., 5 and 6 so that said stitches are not injured by the channeling devices employed to form the groove. The reinalnder of the process of manufacture 1S precisely the same as in the ananufacture of any turned shoe, the shoe being lasted wrong side out and sewed in thisposition, asindicated in Fig. 5 and then .turned as lndlcated 111 Fig. 6.

lVith the above described construction, as

.all of the stitcheswhich fasten the upper to the shoe bottom in the fore-part, which is the only place on the sole where wear occurs,

are all located in the tap-piece, if the sole is completely worn through, the upper attaching threads will still be protected, and

.in fact there is no more possibility of these threads being cut by wear than there is in -the ordinary welt-shoe.

apparent that the stitches will be held more securely than they are in an ordinary turned shoe, in which they must be located in the flesh portion. As the channel groove 6 is formed by cutting into the exposed grain surface of the tap-piece at a distance from the edge thereof, it will be apparent that the portion of the tap-piece which projects beyond the upper after the shoe is turned, and in which the fair-stitches c are located, has a grain surface which may be finished as satisfactorily as the welt of a welted shoe, and much more satisfactorily than the corresponding portion of an extension edge turned shoe, for reasons before explained. A reinforcing of the forepart of the shoe is thus provided without injury to the appearance of the bottom of the shoe, as this surface has the same appearance as if the tap-piece were not present, and, by this method a shoe having a. certain weight of sole may be secured at less expense than with the ordinary method, as sole leather in the form of tap-pieces is much less expensive than in the form of whole soles, while the extra cost of preparing the sole by my method is comparatively small.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is Av turned shoe comprising a complete outer sole, :1 tap-piece fair-stitched at the edge to the inner side of the fore part of said sole and having its shank end skived to provide an approximately continuous surface from the exposed side of the tap-piece to the sole, the shank portion of the inner side of the outer sole and the exposed side of the tap-piece having a channel formed therein for the upper connecting-stitches, which lead through the inner side of the skived end of the tap-piece into the covered portion of the sole directly beneath and extend continuously from the tap-piece to the sole at each side thereof, the portion of said channel in the tappiece extending within the line of the fair-stitches, as and for the purpose set forth.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

HENRY C. R()\VE.

Vitnesses L. H. HARRIMAN, Runner 1). TRASK. 

